Emporer & Archduke

* Time: Day approach, Full D
* Difficulty: Class II, 45 Neve 8 pitches
* Map: Glacier Ck

Serac on approach
A beautiful alpine ice climb in a remote location. Find trail in valley on North side of Archduke by climbing western side of creek until game trail which is traversed into valley. A trail was cut through alder in the avalanche paths in 1995. At the bottom of the head of the valley climb directly up through evergreens on the right side of the valley until the top of the moraine wall is reached. Head further up the valley finding a small lake for very limited camping. Early start required traversing to the end of the valley, gaining glacier at the bottom and traversing left to the ridge. Climbing to the rock buttress and then traversing out on the gully/face direct to the summit rock which is easily scrambled on the right side.

Easy traverse to Emporer.

Long Snowclimb ascent on N face Emporer possible direct from Glacier on Archduke Ascent.

More Information
Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia