Sunday, June 11, 2006

Mt Gimli

Location: Valhalla Park - Bannock Burn Rd N

Access: From just south of Slocan City follow signs on Gravel Pit Rd. to Valhalla Park, 15km from Slocan on the Little Slocan Rd. take right on ? Rd. Follow signs for Valhalla Park to Trail Head. Follow trail for 1.5 hrs to base of S ridge.

Standard Route

From base of S ridge traverse right and gain ridge and on to summit. Awesome views into Mulvey Basin and surrounds.

South Ridge ( ***** 8 pitches 5.9 )

The hardest pitch is the bottom crack which is starts just to the right of the SE ridge. The route is quite easy to follow - on the third pitch a seemingly blank wall (5.10b) is bypassed by moving right around the ridge to find easier ground (5.7) The fifth pitch is the second crux with the crack following a dihedrahl and then moving out left beneath a imposing looking roof. From the left hand edge of the roof large jugs can be found above the roof and then get your ass up. Easy climbing follows. The descent is down the S ridge until the lowest point on the ridge and then descend to the meadows below.

Bypass first two pitches by one pitch of 5.5 in obvious crack system immediately let of ridge.

More Information
Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia

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