Kootenay Mountains

Badshots

2006-06-11T22:12:00.000-07:00

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Rogers Pass

2006-06-11T22:11:00.002-07:00

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Bugaboo's

2006-06-11T22:11:00.001-07:00

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Kokanee Range

2006-06-11T22:11:00.000-07:00

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Glacier Creek

2006-06-11T22:10:00.000-07:00

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Emporer & Archduke

2006-06-11T22:07:00.000-07:00

* Time: Day approach, Full D
* Difficulty: Class II, 45 Neve 8 pitches
* Map: Glacier Ck

Serac on approach
A beautiful alpine ice climb in a remote location. Find trail in valley on North side of Archduke by climbing western side of creek until game trail which is traversed into valley. A trail was cut through alder in the avalanche paths in 1995. At the bottom of the head of the valley climb directly up through evergreens on the right side of the valley until the top of the moraine wall is reached. Head further up the valley finding a small lake for very limited camping. Early start required traversing to the end of the valley, gaining glacier at the bottom and traversing left to the ridge. Climbing to the rock buttress and then traversing out on the gully/face direct to the summit rock which is easily scrambled on the right side.

Easy traverse to Emporer.

Long Snowclimb ascent on N face Emporer possible direct from Glacier on Archduke Ascent.

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Mt Loki

2006-06-11T22:05:00.000-07:00

The dominant peak from the West Kootenay side of the Purcell. Easily visible from Kootenay Lake north of the West Arm and Kaslo.
Boat across Kootenay Lake, or Drive up logging road on east shore of Kootenay Lake. Good routes up the ridges up to 5.4

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Purcell Mountains

2006-06-11T22:03:00.000-07:00

Purcell Mountain Geography

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Mt. Asgard

2006-06-11T21:58:00.001-07:00

Located at the headwater of Mulvey Creek on the North-West edge of Mulvey Basin.

East Ridge:
Approach from Mulvey Basin, climb talus slopes on right of south face to the summit. Standard Descent Route. Time from Mulvey Basin 2-3 hours.

South Face Center:
Start from left slanting crack system in center of face. Climb runout crack system to slab system traversing leftwards into crack system on left of more obvious crack system on right. If you climb right crack system dead ends after 2-3 pitches and requires rappels into left system. Crack climbs to summit through small roof. 5.8

South Face Left Center:
Climb left crack system which tends rightwards into summit roof system. 5.8

West Ridge ****: 5 pitches from col 5.7

New Route left center face at http://www.genuineguidegear.com/life/blog/cam/new-alpine-route-mt-asgard-valhallas 5.10-5.11

More photos at http://kootenayexperience.smugmug.com/Kootenay-Locations/Valhalla-Provincial-Park/3169333_uXeNw/1/181810780_e8LrV#181810780_e8LrV

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Mt Gimli

2006-06-11T21:52:00.000-07:00

Location: Valhalla Park - Bannock Burn Rd N

Access: From just south of Slocan City follow signs on Gravel Pit Rd. to Valhalla Park, 15km from Slocan on the Little Slocan Rd. take right on ? Rd. Follow signs for Valhalla Park to Trail Head. Follow trail for 1.5 hrs to base of S ridge.

Standard Route

From base of S ridge traverse right and gain ridge and on to summit. Awesome views into Mulvey Basin and surrounds.

South Ridge ( ***** 8 pitches 5.9 )

The hardest pitch is the bottom crack which is starts just to the right of the SE ridge. The route is quite easy to follow - on the third pitch a seemingly blank wall (5.10b) is bypassed by moving right around the ridge to find easier ground (5.7) The fifth pitch is the second crux with the crack following a dihedrahl and then moving out left beneath a imposing looking roof. From the left hand edge of the roof large jugs can be found above the roof and then get your ass up. Easy climbing follows. The descent is down the S ridge until the lowest point on the ridge and then descend to the meadows below.

Bypass first two pitches by one pitch of 5.5 in obvious crack system immediately let of ridge.

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Mt Dag

2006-06-11T21:51:00.000-07:00

Mt Dag

* Location: Valhalla Park - Bannock Burn Rd off Little Slocan Rd
* Time: 4 Hrs

A hike and a scramble from the Mulvey basin parking lot ascending the creek and basin above the parking lot and then traversing east in the alpine with some scrambling near the summit.

N Face climbing route - Sweet Judy Blue Eyes ( J. Roskelly FA ) 5.10 A2 for about 2000

Little Dag 5.8 12 pitches - the summit just to the west of Dag climbed from Mulvey Basin in a long day. Ridge into snowpatch and then direct to Ridge and summit

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Valhalla Mountains

2006-06-11T21:46:00.000-07:00

Most of the Mountaineering in this region was conducted in the 1970's as logging roads pushed further up the rugged valleys.

The centre for mountaineering is the Mulvey Basin accessed from the town of Slocan > Little Slocan Lakes Rd > 15km > Bannock Burn Rd and then follow trail past the bottom of Gimli and through the col on the west side of Gimli. Find a small cairn on the ridge leading to a small ledge that traverses over an exposed vertical drop of about 20m. Descend onto pocket glacier and traverse right above small cliff and then traverse left and descend glacier exiting on smooth granite slabs and into Mulvey Basin.

Mountains of the Mulvey Basin
> Priestly
> Asgard
> Mt Asgard

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